Custom Hale Wall Dog Doors can be built to fit an existing hole in your wall to fit in a limited space or replace a discontinued door
- Weather tight vinyl flap door
- Double flap pet doors have insulating dead air space
- 2 1/2" to 10" adjustment range for wall thickness
- 16" tunnel for deeper walls
- Trim to fit tunnel section, just cut with tin snips to fit wall thickness
- Brush weather stripping and multiple magnets seal flap to frame
- Color matched locking cover with deadbolt
- "Rain Cap" awning included at no cost
- Appropriate sizes for any pet
- Includes carpet for tunnel area
- Satin, White, Bronze or Arizona Beige frame colors available
The Hale Security Pet Door for walls is a very weather tight doggy door. It is self-framing from 2 ½" to 10". Optional tunnels are available during the checkout process at 16" thick, and add 10% to the cost. Hale provides carpeting for the aluminum sheet-metal tunnel section. They use a clear vinyl flap with brush weather strip insulation around the flap to seal it to the frame. A double flap pet door (recommended for better insulation) has a flap on the inside of the door and a flap on the outside of the door, with an insulating dead air space in between. Hale uses clear vinyl flaps with magnets at the bottom corners on small and small medium sizes, and has more on sides and center bottom in the larger sizes of this door. Hale has the largest number of sizes available of any doggie door manufacturer, making it easy to find a door for any pet.
The locking cover is made from a tough color matched UV resistant marine grade Starboard plastic that comes with a steel springloaded lock for maximum security. Wall mounted pet doors are sometimes installed under a window sill or cabinet or other obstruction that prevents the locking cover from sliding in on top. If this is the case for you, you can order a sideways sliding locking cover instead of a top loading locking cover. When you go through the ordering process you can state whether you want the locking cover to slide in on the left, right, or the top.The pictures of the frame colors will vary with your particular monitor and the brown background on the pictures doesn't do us any favors, but they are shown to give an approximate idea of the colors available. Satin is actually a brushed aluminum, similar to the bottom of a soda can. A good description of the beige is like coffee with 2 creams in it. White is bright white, bronze is almost black.There are 3 important sizes with respect to pet doors:
|Size|| Square Inches
|Small||Up to 64 square inches|
|Small Medium||65 to 89 square inches|
|Tall Small Medium||90 to 113 square inches|
|Tall Medium||114 to 136 square inches|
|Large||137 to 170 square inches|
|Tall Large||171 to 210 square inches|
|Tall Large Plus||211 to 252 square inches|
|Extra Tall Large||253 to 304 square inches|
|Extra Large||305 to 345 square inches|
|Extra Large Plus||346 to 367 square inches|
|Giant||368 to 522 square inches|
|Larger than Giant||call for pricing|
When ordering a custom Hale pet door for a wall, we need the size of the hole (we call this the Rough Opening) that you want it to fit. If it has been a while since geometry in high school, you just need to multiply the width of the opening by the height to find the area in square inches. An example: 12" wide x 12" high = 144 square inches, and you would buy a large to fit.
If you're measuring for a wall that had a previous pet door installed, we want the SMALLEST width and SMALLEST height on either side of the wall. Holes for pet doors are usually cut with a jigsaw and the thin blades can flex. Take your tape measure and slide it up and down the opening and find the narrowest width then run it side to side and find the shortest height. Do this on both sides of the wall, and give us the smallest measurements. Your pet door flap will be about 2" smaller than the rough opening dimensions, so a 12" x 12" hole will yield a 10" x 10" flap dimension.
HALE PET DOORTM
Please read these instructions carefully and completely before attempting to install your pet door; they will guide you through the steps and precautions needed for a wall installation. Photos and illustrations have been added to help our customers understand various instructions. To reach an experienced installer for free consultation, please call 1-800-646-4773. Hale Pet Doors are designed for ease of installation and are ideal for masonry or wood framed homes. Any person with a working knowledge of power tools and basic home construction can install the Hale Pet Door. It is important to note however, that the product warranty may be affected if returns have been modified in any way other than specified by these instructions. The door must be properly installed and caulked to prevent moisture from entering your walls. If you have questions or problems, please call us or contact a professional in your area.
NOTE: These instructions are written for wood or metal stud framed wall installation. Your Hale Pet DoorTM “wall model” can also be installed in any brick or block wall construction and with exterior brick, stucco, or siding.
A SAFETY REMINDER! Always wear eye protection and gloves when appropriate.
Step 1: Before installation, be sure that you have the proper size pet door for your pet. If in doubt larger is better. It may be harmful for your pet to use a pet door that is too small. A good general rule is to install the pet door so that the distance from the floor to the top of the passage opening is above the shoulder of your largest pet. Remember that there will be a short tunnel for your pet to navigate. You don’t want them to have to crawl through or hunch over as this can hurt an animal’s hips.
Step 2: Take a brief look at the large illustration of the wall model and become familiar with various components of the pet door wall model. This will not only help in understanding the terms used in these instructions but can be very useful should you need to call for technical support.
Step 3: Check the package you received to make sure that it contains all necessary parts.
Complete Kit includes:
5/8" #6 Phillips head screws
GE Lexan® security cover
7/64" drill bit
Hale Pet DoorTM wall model (includes inner frame with attached tunnel and outer frame)
Raincap included but use is optional
Tools you may need: (varies depending on type of wall into which you are installing pet door)
5/16" Masonry bit
Blue masking tape
Circular saw with wood or masonry blade
Step 4: Find a suitable area for the wall model. Most wall models have a vertical lifting security cover (side loaded cover models are available as needed). Make sure the area has no obstructions to hinder the removal of this cover. For installation in a framed wall, try to place the pet door between studs; a stud finder makes finding stud locations easy. Mark the stud locations and if possible, center the pet door between the studs. Look at the preferred location from both the inside and outside of the wall for signs that wiring, cable or plumbing may be inside the wall. Keep in mind upstairs bathrooms may have plumbing in the lower level walls. Use a stud finder if necessary
CAUTION: Cutting a power line leading to an outlet or light switch or hitting a plumbing pipe with power tools can result in severe injury or death. Studs in an exterior wall should be 16" on center, giving you 14" of room between studs.
Step 5: Lay down drop cloths on both sides of the wall where you will be installing your pet door to make for easier cleanup after installation. You may also wish to tape the interior drop cloth to the baseboard with blue masking tape. This will help prevent any debris from falling into the crack between the drop cloth and the carpet.
NOTE: You may wish to reverse steps 6 and 7. Pencil marks can be difficult to remove from walls and you may wish to cut a small hole in the wall to check for obstructions before you draw the entire pattern.
Step 6: Draw a pattern on the inside wall according to your pet door size with a pencil. Wall openings are listed below according to pet door size. For special size pet doors the opening may be determined by measuring the tunnel. Make sure your opening is square and level.
Step 7: Open a small hole somewhere near the center of the drawn pattern on the inside wall as shown below in the drawing or at the bottom of the area as shown in the picture. Shine a flashlight through the opening and look for obstructions within the wall. The small opening is much easier to patch should obstructions be found. If nothing is seen or if the Look and feel for obstructions through a small hole before you cut out the entire hole for the
pet door insulation is blocking your view, you may reach inside the wall and feel for obstructions that may not have been seen.
Step 8: If the wall area is clear then you may proceed to cut the inside wall within the drawn pattern; a drywall saw is most generally used on the inside. Push the insulation up into the wall above and/or beside the rough opening. You may wish to replace the cut out piece of sheetrock back into the rough
opening temporarily and lean the pet door against it to hold it in place. This will help prevent dust being blown into the house when you cut the hole. Cut the opening with a Remove interior piece of Push the insulation into the exterior wall. drywall saw. drywall and save. wall out of the way.
Step 9: Proceed with the wall cutout by drilling completely through the outer wall from the inside at each corner of the cutout pattern. A long drill bit may be required to do this. (A 12" long drill bit can usually be purchased for $4-$8 to help with this.) Be sure the drill is held straight so that the inner and outer holes are drilled in-line. If you have exterior brick orstucco walls, be sure to use a masonry bit rather than the same bit you used on the interior
wall. Drill reference holes to the outside wall at the corners.
Step 10: On the outside wall, find the reference holes you drilled in Step 9 and draw your square on the wall. Again, measure carefully and make sure the exterior opening is both square and level and in line with the interior opening you previously cut.
Step 11: Drill out two corners diagonal from each other (top left and bottom right OR top right and bottom left). Depending on the construction of the wall you may want to use a 7/8" flat blade boring bit (for wood surfaces) or a 5/16" regular bit. If you use a 5/16" bit, drill three holes close together (shown below) then wiggle the bit until you have connected the three holes. This will allow you enough room to get a reciprocating saw blade into the holes. (You can also drill the holes on all four corners if desired, to make it easier to cut down and across with the reciprocating saw rather than sawing upwards.)
Measure and mark the outside wall carefully
Planned wall opening
Drill bit holes
Drill out corners first to make it
easy to insert saw blade.
Step 12: After the holes (from Step 11) are connected, use a reciprocating saw to cut out the rough opening along the marked lines. If you do not have a reciprocating saw, you can use a key saw or circular saw to start the hole and a hand saw to cut out the entire rough opening. If you are cautious, a circular saw can be used on the outside wall. Use the proper blade for the circular saw depending on the type of outside material being cut. A reciprocating saw easily cuts the exterior hole, although other types of saw can be used. For example, we recommend using a diamond blade to cut
through stucco. There is no need, nor is it advisable, to frame the inside of the wall cutout. The Hale Pet DoorTM Wall Model is completely self-framing.
After the opening is cut from the outside, remove the interior piece of sheetrock from the inside hole.
Step 13: Place the inside frame with attached tunnel through the wall cutout. From the outside, reach through the opening and hold the inside frame tight against the wall. Mark the tunnel with a pencil along the outside wall on all sides as shown. Hold pet door tightly against interior wall and mark with pencil from exterior to get correct tunnel depth.
Step 14: Remove the interior pet door frame and tunnel from the hole. Carefully cut the tunnel along the pencil mark with metal snips to make the tunnel the correct depth for your wall. Be cautious when cutting metal so you don’t accidentally cut yourself on the removed piece. Discard the metal strip that you have cut off the tunnel. Use tin snips to cut the tunnel to the correct depth.
Step 15: The “Flashing” is a thin piece of aluminum with three flanges designed to aid with water containment and diversion. Caulk the flashing with latex caulking as follows: Apply two large beads on the bottom approximately 1/2" from the rear and another generous bead on the bottom and sides
approximately 1" from the front. Apply a bead on the outside of both vertical flanges at the front. The bottom pre-drilled holes of the outer frame should sit directly above the bottom front bead of caulking when it is installed.
Caulk the flashing before inserting into exterior hole.
Step 16: Place the flashing into the bottom of the wall opening. The flashing should have the two side flanges pointing upward and the outside flange downward and against the outside wall as shown.
Step 17: Insert the inside frame and tunnel back into the opening. From the outside, pull the inside door frame tightly against the inside wall
and push the flashing snug against the outside wall. Make sure you pull the inner frame and flashing tightly against the house walls.
Optional Step: The raincap attachment is a Hale exclusive design to aid in water containment and diversion. If your pet door is being installed in a protected area (i.e. indoors between two rooms, under a covered porch, etc.) you may omit this step. The raincap is designed to keep water out of the pet door itself and is not required for installation. If you choose to use the raincap for your wall installation, attach it at this point as shown in the graphic to the right. It should simply hook onto the top of the outer frame.
Step 18: Sleeve the outside frame into the tunnel. With both pet door frames firmly pulled against their respective walls, drill two more holes through the tunnel and bottom flashing using the supplied 7/64" drill bit and the existing pre-drilled holes (in the outer frame) as guides. Insert supplied screws into the drilled holes. Next, drill holes in the sides of the tunnel again using the pre-drill holes (in the outer frame) as a guide. The number of side
screws varies with the size of the pet door.
DRILL THROUGH PILOT HOLES
Sleeve outside frame into
tunnel and pull firmly
Step 19: Drill two holes through the bottom of the tunnel evenly spaced and approximately 2" to 2 1/2" back from the inside of the outer frame using the supplied 7/64" drill bit. Insert the 5/8" #6 screws provided and tighten to attach the flashing to the tunnel. Drill holes into sides and bottom of tunnel and
secure with screws. Number of holes will vary depending on the size of the pet door ordered. You should be drilling through on e of your caulk beads when attaching the flashin g to the tunnel.
Step 20: Use a caulking sealer between the outside frame and the outside wall at the top and both sides. DO NOT CAULK AT THE BOTTOM OF THE OUTSIDE FRAME. This will restrict the drainage of moisture should any accumulate inside the pet door. You may also caulk around the whole perimeter of the inner frame, if desired, although this is not required. You may wish to outline the door with blue masking tape before you caulk to make a
cleaner caulk line and to make cleanup easier. If you do decide to use the tape, allow the caulk to dry for a few minutes before you remove the tape.
Tape and caulk around the door perimeter to seal the pet door. DO NOT caulk the outside.
Step 21: Measure the width of the tunnel between the door frames and mark measurement on the back of the carpet. Trim the included carpet to the correct width to cover the distance between the door frames. You may wish to dry fit the carpet into the tunnel to verify the width before using adhesive. NOTE: The carpet length has been precut for each size of door so you should not have to trim the length. After making sure the carpet is cut correctly,
install it into the tunnel using a common construction glue to keep the carpet in place. DO NOT use silicone to attach the carpet as the odor will not dissipate as it is trapped between the flaps. To make it easier to install the carpet in the tunnel when the adhesive has been applied, use a caulk
gun to apply the adhesive directly to the sides and bottom of the tunnel. Roll the two ends of the carpet inwards and set into the bottom of the tunnel. Carefully unroll one side of the carpet and press firmly to the side of the tunnel and the adhesive. Press the carpet tightly into the bottom corner of
the tunnel. Push the carpet against the bottom of the tunnel and work it into the other bottom corner. Finally, unroll the second side of the carpet and press it firmly against the other side of the tunnel.
Step 22: Peel the protective covering from the GE Lexan® security cover and set it aside for a couple of hours before installing it into the front frame. A drying period will prevent the inner flap from sticking to the newly uncovered GE Lexan® security cover. The cover will slide easily into place in the built-in frame and can be easily locked and unlocked with the positive action pin bolt lock. Installing the standard top loading security cover. It can also be ordered side-loading.
Step 23: If desired, place the wall pieces you removed in the pet door box and give to the customer to keep them for possible future use. They can usually be used to patch the wall if the need to remove the pet door ever arises.
Step 24: Remove the drop cloths and clean up the area. You may use any standard ammonia free window cleaner to wipe down the flaps and remove any fingerprints or residue from the installation. Wrap up any installation debris in the drop cloths for easy removal. Vacuum the area both
inside and outside. Clean both flaps with window cleaner.
Flaps: Double flaps (one flap on each door surface) made of flexible 3/16" clear PVC vinyl
Inner Frame: Inner frame made of two separate metal extrusions.
Three sides entrap the security cover.
Both extrusions are .063" wall thickness.
Outer Frame: Extruded 6063-T5 aluminum with .063" wall thickness.
Designed to sleeve into the inside frame.
Alnico5 Magnets: A 1/4" rod magnet 1 1/2" long made from an aluminum, nickel and cobalt alloy known for its strength and durability. Door size determines number of magnets.
Strikes: Made of ferrous stainless steel. 1 1/2" long, 3/4" tall and 1/32" thick. U shaped with interior prongs, when pressed onto the vinyl flap, the barbed prongs hold firmly.
Weather-stripping: Flap is surrounded by 1/2" nylon pile for maximum insulation. Nylon is woven into a backing 9/32" wide and 1/32" thick.
Tunnel: Pre-assembled .040" aluminum wrapped around and riveted and sealed to the inner flange of the inside frame. Attached to outer frame at install.
Security Cover: 3/16" thick GE Lexan® polycarbonate sheet. Extremely shock and impact resistant. Has a 3/8" diameter locking hole and a 3/4" diameter handle hole.
Pin Lock: A 1/4" diameter positive action steel pin encased with 5/32" thick fabricated plated steel.
Nylon Carpet: Stain, mold and mildew resistant carpet. Covers both inner walls and bottom of the tunnel.
Flashing: Metal strip added to bottom of tunnel to make sure that any water is shunted to the outside of the wall.
Raincap: An awning like attachment that hooks to the outside frame for use in diverting water and preventing it from entering the pet door from above. It is included as a standard component of the wall model but its use is optional.
HALE PET DOORTM
WALL MODEL INSTALLATION
The Hale wall model pet door is designed to be easy to install into almost any wall type. As the following pictures show, it has been installed in walls with various finishes including brick, stone, stucco, vinyl, aluminum, and wood. The installation process is virtually the same for all wall finish types with the variations being the way the exterior surface is cut. Please use the appropriate tools for each job and call for technical support if needed.